Bring Back London!
Fashion houses like Burberry and Ted Baker make me proud to be a Londoner with their steadfast image and effortless chic. Their take on menswear gives a true sense of London's edge and eternal youth. I can't help but feel that the fashion industry has been dominated by too many cities around the world for too long. We've seen everything from New York Grunge to California Cool right the way to Harajuku trends from Tokyo and as fantastic and fabulous as these may have been, London's time on the map has not been significant enough.
"New York Grunge"
"California Cool"
"Harajuku"
There have been many beautiful decades in fashion in our city from the bourgeois chic of the 1920's to the Mods & Rockers scene of the 60's into the 70's, London has produced top trends, top designers and high-grade fashion! The beauty does not lie in the trends alone but in the execution of them - the immaculate tailoring and clean lines created by British fashion houses remain unrivalled and therefore should be showcased by all people - not just the six-figure-salary cats. Gentlemen (because that's what we are, not boys) it's time to throw out the polo shirts and oversized sweaters. New Balance sneakers belong in the gym or out on runs through Hyde Park, not everyday wear. Let's bring back that London look - the business look.
Clean lines, sleek tailoring and splashes of colour characterise Burberry's London look
There is nothing worse than feeling under-dressed, however it seems we men have lapsed into thinking that being grossly so for an event is better than turning up well-dressed. Note I wrote well-dressed and not over-dressed. There is no such thing as being over-dressed so long as you are confident enough to pull it off. This year, let's snap out of that bad habit and make more of an effort! There is an abundance of suits out there and more so, a million different sources of inspiration for mens outfits. Look to brands like Hackett, Paul Smith, Burberry and Ted Baker for the true gentleman's apparel and dont be afraid to be daring! The beauty of the look of the Londoner is the ease with which the look is pulled off but also the added edge in colour and accessories. Let's not follow any longer! After all, we do live in a fashion capital!
Ciao Belissimi!
Mr. Darkwah
X
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"How about we DON'T walk around looking like an ad campaign for that brand?" - Mr. Darkwah
"Let's stop trying to be "cool" and dress like men - NOT boys!" - Mr. Darkwah
Men, let's not think that just because we're wearing a wide-scoop t-shirt with chinos and boat shoes of (for the younger ones) high-top white air force ones from Nike, that we're dressed up or doing well for "style".
Just because it's the one look that's been shoved down our throats, irrespective of the season and weather conditions does not mean it is how we should dress. There are too many things one can do with items they already have in their wardrobe and more so, without buying outrageously priced ripped t-shirts that if you set a rabid dog on, you'd achieve the same look and for free (albeit a bit wet).
Here, let's go through a few things we won't do that will surely help us in the long run to looking like "cool" (if one can use that word without sounding patronising) and well-turned-out men, young and old.
Let's not forget our age:
It's always nice to feel young and "fresh" in what you're wearing and we're all for freedom of expression here at La Clique but we cannot and will not condone the dressing up like teenage delinquents done by men clearly over the age of 21! What's more - we do not encourage such dressing amongst teenagers. Wearing your trousers well below your posterior is not a good look unless you are in a state penitentiary and the guards fear you may hang yourself. Do not do it! Too many times you will see a well-dressed man and as soon as he takes off his jacket or cardigan you discover his trousers (which, by the way are formal and belted) are halfway down his backside and creating an unsightly sag in the legs. I cannot stress how atrocious this manner of dressing is so if you have a merciful bone in your body, spare me and wear your trousers properly!
If you insist on having that "saggin' cos I'm packin'" look, try arc pants or pantalounes (more commonly known as drop-crotches). They keep you looking clean and yet maintain an air of "street mean" .
You bathe - make sure people know it! :
There seems to be an obsession amongst all men who are trying to be "trendy" to see who can look the least bathed and most bacteria-infected. If you are looking in the mirror at a man in a ripped t-shirt teamed with ripped jeans, scuffed shoes or, even worse, torn trainers with a cardigan that looks like it survived Hiroshima and Nagasaki and a beanie hat with scraggly bits of thread on it - stop and think very hard about what you're doing. Why look as though you had to sleep on the underground or metro (whatever you may call it) when you can achieve the same look without that "homeless edge" about it?
Simply team a pair of skinny jeans with a large sweater (cowl or crew neck - your choice) and a beanie hat. Fingerless gloves can be used to add more of the "grungy" feeling to the outfit. Combine these with worker boots or, my personal favourites, Doc Marten's and a large duffle bag (similarly coloured for that urban, city-android feel) and you're all set! No mention of ripping, tearing, going at clothes with a cheese grater - it's all don't and everything is still intact! For such an outfit to work to its best effect, let the base of your outfit (the t-shirt) be a crisp white and the rest of it varying shades of grey with splashes of black.
Ad Campaigns and runways are just that! Leave them be! :
We often forget that seeing an advertisement or a runway show that were we to dress in such a fashion in actuality, more than just a scene would be caused. The runway is a model for us to go on and water down with our own personal style - our flair. Please do not fall into the trap of feeling that lest you have the whole outfit from the runway, you cannot be seen out. If the runway shows and ad campaigns were the be all, end all, surely clothes would be free and we would all wear exactly the same thing in the same way and live as uniformed androids in a city run by high fashion? (A little farfetched, I know but I had to put across my point, didn't I?) Always mix up a look. The last thing you want to do is look like a double of the H&M poster at the bus stop when waiting for your bus to arrive.
I don't expect you to wear the outfits I suggested exactly as I did, I just wanted you all to know that there are many ways of wearing one thing or achieving a look! Try it for yourself, you might be surprised at the results!
Until next time!
Ciao Belissimi!
Mr. Darkwah
X
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Mr. Darkwah's
Easy Guide to Futurist Fashion
Before we get into this, I just want to let you know that I am not writing this because I feel it may be a trend in the near future. I am simply writing this because I have recently falen in love with futurist-chic looks for men and have been experimenting with different ways to achieve the look without going overboard and looking like something out of The Matrix.
A lot of the time, when one thinks of 'furutist fashion' one sees silver trousers, sneakers big enough to be spaceships themselves and glasses that would give GaGa a run for her money! We don't want that. As men, we can be flamboyant, yes, but the simplicity in the way we dress is what makes our outfits and ourselves that much more appealing. This particular piece, I have written with the bright-young-things in mind. The boys who people think spend their lives on Brick Lane and being "indie" in parks at midnight. Here are a few simple ways to look futuristic without going over the top.
Think Shapes:
Yes, once again, I am asking you to think of shapes but this time not necessarily what compliments your shape the most. The future can be interpreted, fashion-wise, in many different ways so think about how you would interpret it and run with that idea. For me, the future is a mixture of sleek lines and feral edge! With this in mind, I would aim to create a silhouette that embodied these two feelings. Skinny jeans and a fur/faux fur jacket would do the trick as the jeans, being tight and therefore close to the legs creates a fluid and sleek line. The fur jacket (I'd go for a gilet to bulk up the torso and keep the arm's slender) would create an indefinite outline and add that rough-and-tumble edge to your outfit.
Shoes:
Thinking about shoes, you must have a clear idea of how you want to interpret "the future" in your look as this would determine the shoes you wear like any other component of the outfit. Should you see the future as a clinical "warzone" you may opt for sneakers that scream futurist-chic like the Supra Skytop II. The super high top of these sneakers creates a Star Wars-like hybrid between the sneaker and the boot and being completely white create a very cold and clinical element to your futurist look. My choice for this look is a simple loafer, the Bass Weejun. I chose these because I feel they provide the same clinical effect but without the added drama of being completely white or "sky high"!
Accessories:
It's not a bad thing for a man to plan his accessories - matter of fact, I think it's an act to applaud! There's nothing worse than having a well put-together outfit and ruining it with the wrong accessories so guys, get to thinking about that! The best way to do futuristic, in my opinion, is simple and clean shapes with little colour. Sunglasses are often the way to go when doing futuristic looks and we men have many to look to for inspiration from Will.I.Am and APL De Ap of The Black Eyed Peas to Andre 3000 of OutKast and KanyeWest! I went for a pair of sunglasses by Replay Vintage as they are as cold and clinical as they come! The fact that they are silve and metal as opposed to the plastic frames that we get a lot of just adds to that futuristic "android" look that you might want. Try some metallic bracelets and mix them in with leather wristbands to create that cross between android and beast. I also feel that adding a skullcap or beanie hat will take you that little bit further into the future as, by covering the head and then having these sunglasses covering your eyes, you achieve that distant look of the future where expression is not shown (a little deep, I know but with fashion, one can be as deep or shallow as they please!)
The shirt/T-shirt:
We've just about covered all bases and now you're ready to go, I'm sure but you need to knoe how to dress this look up, and take it down for a casual day with friends (who, if you are reading this will have to be fashionistas and 'nistos also). To achieve an edgy formal look, take a low-collared white shirt and team that with an extremely skinny black tie or ribbon bow-tie. The black tie is good for the very hard and unemotional look as it gives off a razor-sharp feel to it whereas the ribbon bow-tie is rather playful and, I feel, should only be done with the Bass Weejuns as the shoe choice. To wear this look casually, take a large white t-shirt (short-sleeved) and roll up the sleeves three to four times - high enough to be seen as just doing it for kicks and not to show off your arms. Usually a plain t-shirt works well with this look but if you're looking to add some life to the look, go for a patterned t-shirt (coloured patterns detract from the look so stay in monochrome territory). I chose an Aztec print t-shirt from CueFreakshow as my t-shirt for my casual look.
There you have it! Your simple guide to futurist fashion without going completely GaGa! Try it out and send your takes on the look to mrdarkwah@gmail.com. La Clique's favourite picks will be featured on Les Images!
"Style is an individual affair. Nothing to do with trends and what's going on in the fashion world. When a person wakes up and decides to wear something that is completely them - something that comes from their very essence and doesn't care what anyone thinks. THAT is style.
When it is recognised, publicised and capitalised by others - that is when it becomes fashion. Be stylish - NOT fashionable." - Mr. Darkwah
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Mr. Darkwah's tips for
The Turn of The Season
When the season changes and you don't know what to wear, DON'T opt for tracks!
3 Things You Should Know
So Summer's coming to an end and we're making that awkward transition from the certainty of warmth (certainty being used loosely as in London, one is never certain) to the days where it seems the weather cannot make up its mind. In doing this, we men, going for the safest and least stressful option forget about looking presentable and just live in track suits and bomber jackets - prepared for the worst but not for all eventualities. Here are some smart ways to deal with this seasonal change.
Layer:
It seems people have forgotten the good that layering can do in times of uncertain weather. Taking a simple cardigan and wearing it over a shirt with a t-shirt underneath it not only looks good but will keep you warm as well! If it happens that the sun decides to come out and warmth creeps in, loosely drape the cardigan over your neck (tying sweaters and so on around your waist is a little S Club 7, no?), roll up the sleeves of your shirt and hey presto - you've gone from Autumn to Spring/Summer in about the same time that the weather did!
Layering prepares you for all eventualities - here's Ralph Lauren's take on it
Colours:
Do not shy away from this section because it holds true for a lot of men out there - we pick the wrong colours to wear in different weather conditions! I know I've done it before and that leads me to believe that a LOT of others have. The colours of the clothes you wear do a lot for heat retention and picking the wrong ones can leave you feeling either like a pig in a sauna or as though you were in the buff in Antarctica. This is not to be used in its own, though because we all know black retains heat but if you're wearing just a black t-shirt and you're out in breezy 10 degree weather, you'll still feel the cold. Team colouring and layering to achieve optimum warmth.
Colour keeps summer going that little bit longer as you make that change
Choose Jackets Wisely:
Now I'm no physician but I understand that keeping your core warm is essential to comfort whilst travelling. I also know that getting too hot causes unnecessary sweat patches and overuse of the handkerchief (you better be carrying a handkerchief when you're out!). When choosing jackets - not coats, jackets - for the Summer-to-Autumn period, opt for something light. A material that breathes is best however before going for that, I say take a look at gilets! My favourites are by Ralph Lauren and the reason I say look at these is that they provide shelter from those chilly Autumn breezes but when unzipped, allow you to cool off quickly without causing a fuss. Lack of sleeves also means easier movement and freedom to move equals comfort of the highest proportions!
My turn-of-season must-have! The gilet!
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Mr. Darkwah's Guide to beat
That Travelling Problem...
Some simple ways to pack for all occasions lightly...
We all know that travelling's a nightmare and more so, that trying to pack the right clothes to cater for all occasions is even harder as we never know what might come our way. I know I have had to deal with this recently! To you guys reading this now who think "Nah, not me - I've got this sorted. Just some jeans, sweats, a few t-shirts and I'm done" you're wrong. You know within yourselves that you have travel anxiety when it comes to clothing and that should the time come that you need to dress up and you find only your sweats are clean - you'd feel more than just a slight pang of discomfort.
Well, I'm here to say that this article is for you! Here are the clothing items that you should not think about leaving without as they can be used for a whole range of occasions!
I'm not about to break into a long spiel about different shirts and their collars, cuts, shapes and colours appropriate for day and night as I know you'd probably just close the page and return to your old ways. What I will do, is make you a more savvy 'packer' and get you looking good all the time!
Shirts:
What you need to know about shirts (something that every man seems not to care too much about) is that once they've been worn, they MUST be washed. No excuses. Wash it! So in order to prepare for all eventualities, take 3 or four shirts. My favourite type to pack when going away are Ralph Lauren's classic 'Big Shirts' with button-down collars. 2 striped and 2 coloured. These shirts can be worn easily with a pair of jeans and sneakers or with a pair of formal trousers, an appropriately-coloured tie and shoes to make a casual-cool look!
The shirts you CANNOT leave without!
(My personal favourites for summer, Ralph Lauren 'Sport' Shirts)
Tees & Polos:
Simplicity is always key. You never want to look like one of those tourists who arrive at the airport with their ripped jeans, flip-flops and t-shirt with an obnoxious remark printed across their chest. More so, knowing what suits your shape helps a lot too! Yes, guys have to take their shape into account as well! A selection of white crewneck t-shirts and a few polo shirts will do you fine. Plain is not boring - it's practical - recyclable, even! 5 white crewnecks and 3 polo shirts will be fine. TRUST me!
Lacoste's polos, I feel, fit very well - go to them if you're thinking of purchasing any!
Jeans, Trousers & Shorts:
This is an area in which we all fail as we pack way too much. Jeans are odd pieces of work when it comes to wearing them as washing them too much causes them to fade and look rather ugly. However, wearing them for long periods of time and not washing them can result in the most gruesome of odours emanating from your legs! What you want to do when packing is make sure that you've packed 2 pairs of jeans that look different to each other but are relatively plain as it makes it easier to re-wear them with different outfits. You only need one pair of shorts but if you're going somewhere very hot, 2 pairs are advised as you won't want to look the same every time you wear shorts. Holidays are for relaxation and time away from the usual routines in life. This, I feel means that the greatest formalities should be kept to a minimum. One pair of smart trousers will serve you well as you can simply iron your jeans with a crease in the leg, team that with a shirt (ties are optional) and some penny loafers and you're fine! (It IS that easy… You'll see.)
These Jeans from Maison Martin Margiela are favourites of mine as they fit perfectly and work in all situations!
With a blazer and shirt or simple T-Shirt, these shorts from Gant are perfect! (Love a good mens' short-short!)
Jackets (Optional):
We said formalities would be kept to a minimum so you could opt out when it comes to taking jackets. I like to take a jacket or two as it just adds a little sophistication to a casual look and is a great way to make any outfit look clean cut and well-finished. When travelling to a hot country look at 100% cotton jackets or linen ones as these will breathe and allow comfort. I know you may be thinking "Regardless of the material, it's a jacket so that's NOT happening" but would I lie to you when it came to making you look good? (I'll leave you to ponder that thought…)
2 different blazers and 2 ways to wear them - who said you had to be a square when in a blazer?
Shoes:
No, I do not think that sneakers will surface as substitutes for shoes and I do not agree that they are the most comfortable option! traveling is an ordeal all on its own from the security checks to waiting in line and sprinting around the airport trying to find your terminal and yes, I know what for all these you feel that sneakers would be the best choice but thee is another option. just as comfortable, makes an outfit smarter and less hassle to remove and put back on. Loafers. Whenever I travel, I take 2 pairs of loafers, a pair of brogues and 2 pairs of sneakers (a later post will recommend each of these in more depth). Taking the loafers and the brogues allows versatility in levels of "formality" when casually dressed, a simple white crewneck, shorts and brogues/loafers scream sophistication whilst allowing you freedom to move! Don't knock it 'til you've tried it!
The perfect example of brogues with shorts, a t-shirt and jacket - Loving Bally for this!
Sunglasses:
It goes without saying that everyone needs a pair of wayfarers. I'm not going to say they MUST be of a particular brand as the shape of the glasses is what has come to be iconic - not the brand. I always take 2 pairs of glasses as they allow for different finishes to my looks. Aviators (for those of you who don't know, they are worn in Miami Vice by our favourite cop!) and of course, some wayfarers.
The Wayfarer - a classic pair of sunglasses for all looks!
Used in press shots for my clothing line BlueCollarSmart
Don't think that this is too much luggage or you'll be overweight because I've tried it. Matter of fact, I've just done it flying to Missouri with one bag that weighed only 18Kilos! (That's 5Kilos under the weight limit!)
Try it out, guys!
'Til next time!
Ciao Belissimi!
X
